city-mask-grey3

are amazing animals that are very similar and easy to take care of. They are crepuscular (active day/night) although mine tend to be more active at night. They require room temps not to exceed 82 degrees so keep that in mine if you can not control your temps. They eat a powder mixed with water, and enjoy live feeding of roaches or crickets (not required ). They love to climb and prefer height to width, so keep that in mind when purchasing an enclosure.

They love places to hide so they will need vines, plants (fake or real), and hides. They are naturally skittish creatures and its not that they don’t trust you, but they may run away from you when held. Every gecko has its own tolerance levels. Do know that if their tails drop, which they do as a defense mechanism, it will not grow back. Do know that females may lay duds at around 20g, even if not paired. Males may become “ sexually aggressive” as early as 15g, biting at your hands (they latch on to females this way). Most will not break the skin and not all males do this, but I know this can be a deal breaker for many people down the line.

Geckos not feed a complete crested gecko diet may develop metabolic bone disorder so its very important that you buy the right food for your gecko. Calcium may be offered but it generally not needed. You can offer a little powder or buy liquid calcium paying great attention to the proper dosage. Sometimes they can get parasite overload if they get sick or are exposed to another gecko with worms. After determining what parasite it is, you can easily treat it. Signs that a gecko may have parasites is a very skinny and lanky gecko that has dramatically lost weight. You may visually see worms in their feces if the infestation is that bad, but normally eggs are passed in the feces that are not spotted by the eye. This is why quarantining is so important. Crested and Gargoyle geckos live a long time, 20+ years so keep that in mind before purchasing.

Luckily there is no end in choices for crested gecko diets. Geckos need a complete diet to grow well! If they seem to be picky you can also add a pinch of honey pollen to entice them to eat.
It should be the consistency of ketchup. I want to add if your food seems to dry up after a day then you need to use less water. If it gets hard after a day then you need to add more water. I have noticed that Pangea breeder formula and BPZ or thicker protein based formulas will need more water then the fruitier ones. If your crested gecko diet seems to mold fast which can happen in a high humid environment, add some bee pollen.
Roaches are an excellent source of protein for crested geckos! They don’t smell and are easy to take care of! Make sure to gutload them and dust them before offering (Something to keep in mind, some people can develop an allergy to their feces). Most crested geckos will eat them very easy, but sometimes they may show little to no interest. A good way around this is to cut their heads off so they can smell them better. If this doesn’t work you can also use a personal small blender to blend them into the crested gecko diet. T hey will grow faster with live feed and higher temps. (75-78)
Absolutely not! Crested geckos need a balanced diet. Just live feed can lead to MBD ( metabolic bone disorder) and calcium deficiency. This causes twisted bones, warped spines, and is not cureable although you can use liquid cal to help the gecko from getting any worse.
Geckos change color from lighter to darker and it could be a number of reasons. It could be stress, because they are warm, because you misted them, and just a disturbance. This is normal.
Crested geckos are naturally nervous creatures. This is why they do leaps of faith or drop tails. You can’t really “train” a gecko, some tolerate more handling then others. I have personally had adults that seem to seek hands out and other that want nothing to do with you. In time you will learn your geckos personality, just don’t be offended if its a introvert.
So cohabitation is super controversial, and you will get different answers depending on who you ask. Technically you can do it, but know that a female may become dominate over another and inflict pain or hurt the other gecko. If you do it, please keep a very keen eye on them, even if it seems like they have been okay forever. If you are going to do it, do it right. Make sure they have a lot of space and different feeding spots.


A fertile egg when under a light will have a red ring. This ring will be redder and bigger the older the egg is. A non fertile egg will just show up as completely yellow. Sometimes it won’t show rings but instead dark dots or marks, or if its been freshly laid the ring won’t be as pronounced. When in doubt, incubate.