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Geckos are super cool animals for enthusiasts and breeders alike! Here is some information you may want to consider when looking for a gecko to add to the household.
It is best to have the enclosure set up before they get home. It takes a while for them to settle in, most will tell you 2 weeks until you try to handle. There are two different ways you can go about it : bio-active or artificial enclosures.
Bio Active means an all natural self sustaining set up. The basis being you need a drainage layer, screen, eco dirt, isopods/springtails, moss and leaf litter. They are aesthetically pleasing and be as elaborate as you want! The pros are you never need to clean and the plants help keep the humidity up. You can set them up in exo terras, converted aquarium tanks, or acrylic enclosures. The standard size for an adult crested gecko is a 18x18x18.
Babies: 6qt or shoe box size tub
Juvie: 20qt sized tub
Adult: 64qts and up
Housing geckos together is mostly frowned upon because of problems of aggression, it’s harder to keep track of their feeding habits and defecation (these help you keep track of their health) and possible infection if one happens to have something such as parasites. There are exceptions to the rules of people who have housed females successfully or even left there parings together all year, but these are very much exceptions.
Crested geckos need humidity to keep hydrated and have safe sheds, but they also need a dry off period so that they don’t get skin conditions and respiratory problems. This is maintained by misting the enclosure and then allowing it to dry out before misting again. This is very important with babies because dehydration can set in very fast. They will lick water off of foliage but need access to water at all times. I use bottle caps for babies and 1 ounce containers for adults.
Most people think that crested geckos are nocturnal, it is being thought of now as more crepuscular, or active at times of dawn and dusk. They do need 12-14 hours of light which can be given by filtered light through a window. When it comes to UVB lighting, you can use it but it is not required; if it is used you cannot go over 80 degrees, and should be used in a limited 4-6 hours a day. Take very special care to not overheat your crested gecko.
I cannot stress how important it is that you do not feed your crested geckos baby food as a primary source of food. This leads to MBD (metabolic bone disorder) and it is irreversible.
Crested geckos do very well on CDG or crested gecko diet. There are many different types such as Pangea Complete, BPZ, and Repashy. I like to use a Pangea. It is always good to change it up because sometimes a crested gecko will be picky, so you might have to find out which one is best for your geckos. Make sure to follow instructions when mixing the powder with water. Too much water and it will evaporate, too little and it will harden before you can replace it two days later. It should look like the consistency of ketchup. This mixture can be put into small plastic one ounce cups or you can also use appropriate sized plastic bottle tops.
You can also give your crested gecko live gut loaded insects such as crickets or roaches as a treat once a week , but keep in mind that they must primarily eat a crested gecko diet. I like to feed discoids since they do not smell, can not climb, and can not reproduce if they happen to get out unless your house is a constant 85 degrees and up. Make sure you dust with calcium before you feed. I find that most younger geckos will take them easy and older ones might shy away.
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